Tongkat Ali Steamboat Anyone?

Ready to eat Steamboat

Steamboat is a wonderful way to enjoy a meal where everyone is in full control. Each individual can determine what they want to put into their bowl and how much is enough. It is, after all, an Asian culinary invention that truly allows individuality. The steamboat provides us with a very personal type of experience and yet friends and family members can enjoy a meal together while exchanging the latest gossip.

The only setback is the time needed for the stock to slowly rise to a boil before adding the ingredients. Then the hungry diners still have to endure another twenty minutes or so before the food is finally cooked and can be ladled into the waiting bowls.

My recent visit to the Paddy Cafe reveals a novel way to solve this problem. The Walkway Steamboat is available for both lunch and dinner daily. Apart from the usual steamboat spread, guests get a plate of Thai fried rice and a choice three flavoured chicken or fish to snack on while waiting for the steamboat to cook. Upon the recommendation of the helpful waiter, I decide on the three flavoured fish.

The steamboat ingredients are fresh and surprisingly generous unlike some outlets which only give very little with the hope that guests will order more later. The Walkway Steamboat gets another plus point when I discover that my favourite siew mai dumplings are also part of the spread. Needless to say, they are the first to enter the pot.

I decide to put equal amounts of ingredients into both the chicken stock and tom yam soup. Just as I am busy putting my favourite enoki mushrooms into the soup, I over hear a couple who had just arrived ask for Tongkat Ali soup stock. This is a first time I hear that our local aphrodisiac is used as a steamboat soup base. I decide to get more information about this new revelation by beckoning a nearby waiter. I learn that the Tongkat Ali soup base is not stated in the menu and is only available upon request. The soup is the personal creation of the chef who uses real Longjack roots to make his stock.

I look at the ingredients simmering in my pot dejectedly. It is already too late for me to request for a change. Sigh! If only I had know about this earlier. I decide to make a mental note about this and perhaps try out this new creation during the next visit.

Feeling a bit hungry I decide to give the Thai fried rice a try while waiting for the steamboat to come to a boil. It is slightly spicy and I can definitely taste the lemon grass and kaffir lime leaves used by the chef. I instinctively reach for the bird's eye chilies. I like my food spicy and hot. The steamboat has yet to boil by the time I finish my first bowl of fried rice. That gives me the excuse of getting second helpings and this time I want to savour the rice with the accompanying three flavoured fish.

The fish is tender and the seasoning is just perfect, not too overwhelming. This is good as I can taste the freshness of the ikan kurau. The boneless fish fillet is served in bite size pieces allowing me to finish each piece with one mouthful. I dislike eating part of a large piece and ungraciously placing the uneaten portion back onto the plate.

The pot is just beginning to show signs of boiling by the time I finish my second bowl of fried rice. I decide to just sit back and relax while enjoying  the complimentary jug of cordial drink. The live band had just started and they are playing my favoutite song - 'Hotel California'. The ice cold drink is not too sweet. I like the tangy taste which helps to clear my palate and get me ready for my first bowl of steamboat.

After tasting both, I think I prefer the chicken stock to the tom yam soup. The former brings out the taste in each of the ingredients while the latter tends to drown out the flavours. Still, I wish I could have tried the Tongkat Ali soup base. Never mind, that will be my excuse to come to Paddy Cafe again very soon.

 
SIDEBAR
WHERE    :    STARCITY HOTEL
Name of eatery:    PADDY CAFE
Address:    88 Jalan Pintu Sepuluh 05100 Alor Setar Kedah Email: inquiry@starcity.com.my
Tel: +604 7355888

OPENING HOURS
6.30am until 11pm (last order 10.30pm). Walkway Steamboat is available for both lunch and dinner

GETTING THERE
Take the North-South Expressway and exit at either Alor Setar North or Alor Setar South exit points.

The most visible landmark is the Alor Setar Tower which is a five-minute drive to the hotel. The hotel is just 100m from Kedah's latest and largest shopping mall, Aman Central.  

WHAT’S COOKING
Traditional steamboat with fresh ingredients and comes with complimentary Thai fried rice, three falvoured meat dish and a jug of cordial

MUST TRY
Walkway Steamboat (Remember to try out the Tongkat Ali soup base)

YOU’LL PAY
Rates are inclusive of GST. Prices range from RM 26 (2-3 pax) to RM56 (4-6 pax)

ATMOSPHERE
Comfortable and cozy

FACILITIES
Disabled-friendly
Credit card

THE LOO
Clean and well equipped

SERVICE
Friendly and courteous

OVERALL VERDICT
Go give it a try

Blue Mountains Fine Dining

Tucking in to the Darley's Culinary Experience 

It is just a little past six when the cab finally turns into Lilianfel's Resort and Spa. Despite being early for dinner, I can hardly see the surroundings except for the nearby tall trees swaying in the late autumn wind. This is the time of the year when night comes early and I have to constantly remind myself that I am in the Blue Mountains Australia and not back home in Malaysia.

I walk up to Darley's Restaurant and gratefully leave the mountain chill behind when I enter. The first thing that takes my breath away is the ambience. It is like stepping back into a long forgotten era. I cannot help but marvel at the newly revived old world charm. It is like being transported to another era when horse drawn carriages and top hats are the norm.

After all, this fine dining Blue Mountains restaurant is situated in the original house which Sir Frederick Darley built for his daughter Lilian. Sir Frederick was the sixth Chief Justice of New South Wales. In August 1888, he bought 11 acres of land and built the Lilianfel House on it. Looking at it today, I must admit that the conservators of this building must be really experts in their field.

I walk through a tastefully decorated and elegant hallway past a private dining room and drinks room before finally ending up at the dining room which once served as Sir Frederick's open air verandah. It is said that he used to enjoy looking out into his handsome English-styled garden in the cool summer evenings while entertaining visitors.

A quick survey reveals that most of the tables are already reserved. I am glad that Destination New South Wales has made prior arrangements for me or else it will be difficult to find a table in this highly popular restaurant.

The helpful waiter tells me that I am in for a three course meal and I get to choose from the menu. Everything looks so good and I finally settled for the sashimi, Toothfish and chocolate ensemble. Before leaving, the waiter hinted to me that I may like to spend some time exploring the house as the chef is very meticulous in his preparation and presentation. 'Make sure you take a look upstairs,' he whispered before heading off to the kitchen with my selection.

That definitely sounds like a good idea. I quickly finish my warm and deliciously soft bread. It tastes so good both dipped in olive oil or eaten with a generous dollop of slightly salted herbed butter.

Thankfully the staff seems to be in full swing preparing for the evening's action and I get a free reign of the place. I creep up an ornate wooden staircase. It leads to a room which has a large centrally positioned table set the same way like my table downstairs. I guess this room is only used during large private functions as the table can easily seat 20 people. Shifting my attention away from the table, I begin to look around the room. Its walls are adorn with old photographs of people whom, I presume, must have lived here some 100 years ago. I can just imagine the hallways echo with the footsteps of these people when they return home or they laugh happily during parties and celebrations.

I return to my table downstairs and I am in time to see the same waiter making his way towards me with my Japanese inspired entrees. I start with the Hiramasa Kingfish Sashimi which is very light and fresh. The Japanese cucumber adds crunchiness while the chef's brilliant use of nam jim sauce brings out a collision of salty, sweet, spicy and sour tastes to my every bite.

I have a confession to make. I have been greedy. I was so fascinated with the interesting menu that I unabashedly requested for two entrees instead of one. Although my second entree is Wagyu beef but it is something that I have never tried before. Nearly everything in this dish is raw. I look at the waiter questioningly as he places it in front of me. I really have no idea where to start. He motions to me to mix everything up with my fork. The minced Wagyu is indeed very tender and the raw egg yolk helps to bind the roasted black and white sesame seeds and coriander together. The thin squid ink rice wafer adds the additional crunch factor into each savoury mouthful.

My main dish is something that conjures up images of stormy seas, gale force winds and more than ten metre high waves. The Glacier 51 Toothfish is specifically found in a remote island some 4,000 km from mainland Australia. This fish, also known as the Patagonian Toothfish, lives among the underwater volcanic crevices located 2,000 metres below Heard Island.

The lightly grilled Jerusalem artichokes and pine mushroom goes well with the lightly salted Toothfish. The flesh of this sub-Antarctic fish is so tender that it breaks away even with the slightest touch. Call me strange but I like to leave the artichoke chips in the Amaranth consommé for a while before enjoying it. Apart from slightly softening the chips, the combination actually tastes better than enjoying them separately.

The dessert is truly a work of art. I must admit that I took the most photos of this dish. The ice cream topped with handmade Australian Zokoko chocolates is the perfect ending to fine dining experience at Darley's. Munching the cold popcorn reminds me of movies where sometimes things can be perfect, just like this meal.

Looking out of the window as the cab begins to head off, I make up my mind to return one day to Darley's during summer to marvel at the magnificent garden and the stunning Jamison Valley in the background while sampling another of its unforgettable creations.


SIDEBAR
Name of eatery:    Darley's Restaurant
Address: Lilianfels Resort and Spa, Lilianfels Avenue, Echo Point, Katoomba NSW 2780, Australia
Telehone: +61 2 4780 1200
Email: reservations@lilianfels.com.au
Website: http://www.darleysrestaurant.com.au/about.html

OPENING HOURS
6.00pm – 10.00pm Tuesday to Saturday
6.00pm - 10.00pm Sunday (long weekends only)
(Minimum 3 course dinner at A$125 per person applies for Saturday nights and public holidays)

GETTING THERE
Commencing from the Sydney CBD, cross the ANZAC Bridge and follow the Western Distributor to Parramatta Road. Then continue onto the M4 Motorway and travel towards Penrith before continuing onto the Great Western Highway. After about 50 kms, exit the Great Western Highway at the Katoomba Township exit. Follow the signs to Echo Point and the Three Sisters. Darley's Restaurant is less than 500m away.

WHAT'S COOKING
Modern Australian cuisine which highlights the fresh local produce. Look out for the RL logo which denotes that the dish contains 80% of local or regional ingredients

MUST TRY
Hay Smoked Kanimbla Valley Lamb, Wagyu Beef Tartare and Hiramasa Kingfish Sashimi

YOU'LL PAY
Rates are inclusive of local charges. There is ample free parking space in front and around Lilianfels Resort and Spa.

ATMOSPHERE
Luxurious old world charm

FACILITIES
Disabled-friendly

THE LOO
Very clean and well equipped

SERVICE
Friendly and courteous

OVERALL VERDICT
Must try

Thai Dining at Mae Salong

Discovering Authentic Thai Cuisine

Mae Salong is a quaint little restaurant located at the southern part of Sungai Petani. I love the kampung ambience where almost everything is made of dark wood. Guests have to walk across a large earthern fish pond using a sturdy wooden bridge in order to reach the restaurant. The huge water wheel in the middle of the pond must be the most photographed part of Mae Salong as nearly everyone present wants a selfie or wefie with it in the background.

Diners can choose to have their meals in the air conditioned two storey main building or in the small huts beside the pond. Already impressed with the scenery upon my arrival, I decide to enjoy my meal on the second floor so that I can still take in the breathtaking view while waiting for my food to arrive.

I choose a quiet corner and almost immediately a waiter comes by to take my order. I decide not to look at the menu and instead ask him to suggest several dishes that are popular with the returning guests. His face brightens up as he rattles on a long list dishes. I am impressed and quickly decide on the top four on the list.

Mae Salong operates on a small group of well trained chefs and support staff. There are no loud shouting of orders and no rushing regardless of how packed the restaurant is. This family run enterprise which started in 2009 sits on a two acre plot of land surrounded by rustic kampung houses, lush paddy fields and acres of coconut plantations.

I am glad that the deboned chicken feet salad is the first to arrive as I like to enjoy it both as an appetizer and then have it with rice when the other three dishes reach my table. Going by the local name of 'kerabu kaki ayam', this light appetizer requires a lot of preparation. The chicken feet have to be washed and then boiled to a certain degree of tenderness before the bones are carefully removed by hand. I once read that this dish is gaining in popularity as many believe that it is rich in collagen which helps to strenghten joints and reduce arthritis related ailments. Furthermore, the salad served here at Mae Salong is especially fragrant due to the generous use of lemon juice and freshly cut kaffir lime leaves.

Then, the sambal petai dish arrives less than five minutes later. By this time I am ready to tuck into a hearty meal. The medium sized petai beans indicate that Mae Salong uses the local variant. Personally, I prefer the crunchy and sweet local petai than its larger and slightly bitter Thai counterpart. The prawns are succulent and are sourced daily from the nearby Sungai Petani markets. This dish is not too spicy and is suitable even for the kids. The only setback is that it is a little bit too oily for my liking.

The chili crabs go very well with the piping hot rice. I love crabs and do not mind using my bare hands when it comes to this tasty crustacean. I am fortunate in the sense that the chef has used mostly female crabs in the preparation of my dish. Crab roe is delicious and I am happy to see lots of the reddish crab eggs in the sauce. This is dish to be enjoyed slowly as it takes time to reach the tantalizingly sweet flesh hidden in the deep recesses of the shell.

The final dish to arrive is the steamed clams. The bivalves are quite large in size and they are all are open. This is a good as it is a sign of their freshness. Through the years I have learned to avoid unopened shellfish as they will not agree with my stomach. The generous sprinkling of chopped garlic, coriander and chilli adds to the presentation. I am glad that the chef has placed a small charcoal stove steadily burning beneath this dish. I am assured that my clams will be kept warm throughout my meal.

I have a peculiar habit of enjoying clams. I hold one in between my fingers and use it as a ladle to scoop up the sauce. This way I get to sip the sauce and also enjoy a succulent morsel at the same time. The sauce is very good and the clams are the first to disappear even though it is the last to arrive.

SIDEBAR
Name of eatery:    Mae Salong Restaurant
Address:    199-F Kampung Bakar Bata, 08000 Sungai Petani, Kedah Darul Aman
Tel: +60 16-424 6842


OPENING HOURS
Daily 11 am to 3 pm and 6 pm to 11 pm

GETTING THERE
Exit the North South Expressway at the Sungai Petani Selatan and head towards Sungai Petani town. Turn left at the first traffic light (located directly opposite Sharp Roxy factory). Drive slowly and follow the signs placed by the restaurant operator.  

WHAT'S COOKING
Authentic Thai cuisine. The menu is extensive but the chef may accommodate requests for dishes not listed.

MUST TRY
Tom yam prawns, steamed clams and deboned chicken feet salad are a must. The organic sweet potato shoots are crunchy and fresh.

YOU'LL PAY
Rates are inclusive of GST. There is ample free parking space in front and at the side of the restaurant.

ATMOSPHERE
Has the real kampung feel

FACILITIES
Disabled-friendly

THE LOO
Acceptable

SERVICE
Friendly and courteous

OVERALL VERDICT
Must try




NOTE; The last two images feature this published work in the New Straits Times under the Life & Times section Page 14 date Wednesday 31 August 2016

Life On Board HMB Endeavour - 18th Century Vessel

Lieutenant Cook likes to start writing his ship log when it is all quiet and cool in the early part of the morning. He has barely started penning the date when he suddenly hears a loud commotion above deck. Moments later loud footsteps are heard outside his cabin door and these are followed by a breathless voice requesting for his immediate presence above.

It is nearly 6 am on 9 April 1770. Cook with nearly 100 able seamen on board HMB Endeavour are just about to make their historic landfall at the south-eastern coast of Australia. His initial intention was to sail south and reach Van Diemen's Land which is present day Tasmania. However, HMB Endeavour was forced to maintain a northerly course by strong winds and ocean currents.

The place sighted was called Point Hicks after Cook established that Lieutenant Hicks was the first to see it. Sensing good fortune, Cook decided to maintain HMB Endeavour on the same direction, slowly tracing the coast while keeping land constantly in sight.

Three weeks after making landfall at Point Hicks, Endeavour makes the first contact with the local Gweagal Aborigines. Despite the hostilities of the bewildered locals, Cook liked the new place very much. It provided a safe anchorage and there was ample food and fresh water for him and his crew.

This place was initially called Stingray Harbour Bay when Cook saw his men eating large quantities of the seafood but he later changed it to Botany Bay because the botanists who travelled with him, Joseph Banks, Daniel Solander and Herman Spöring managed to collect large numbers of new plant and animal species yet known by the scientific world then.

Botany Bay grew slowly through the years and Sydney was established with the arrival of the first fleet some 18 years after Cook discovered Australia.

I have learnt so much about the founding of this country in books and as a boy I have often dreamed of the golden age when sailors would gallantly sail through uncharted waters and discover new lands. So imagine my excitement when I found out that there is a working replica of HMB Endeavour at the Australian National Maritime Museum. The opportunity to step onboard this historic vessel is too tempting to resist.

The maritime museum is located in Darling Harbour, right in the middle of bustling Sydney and easily accessible either by rail, taxi or simply on foot. I suggest the latter as the weather here is generally nice and cool except for the mid summer months.

In order to access all the exhibits, I decide to opt for the all inclusive but slightly more expensive Big Ticket. In return, I get the back of my hand is stamped with a violet ship's wheel the size of a 50 cent coin. That's the actual entrance ticket. I just have to flash the wheel at the person guarding the exhibit entrances and viola I am in!

The lady at the counter advised me to start with the outdoor exhibits first as the weather is good. So, armed with the museum's comprehensive site map, I embark on my search for the great ship. I easily find the imposing HMB Endeavour moored by a wharf beside the Cape Bowling Green Lighthouse.

The first thing that I notice is the large number of riggings. It is indeed amazing how the crew can cope with 29 km of rope linked to 28 sails. This results in over 10 000 square feet of canvas! They certainly know how to make large sailing ships back then.

There are guides everywhere, ready to explain the interesting aspects in their respective sections. I realise that my perception of the glorified seafarers of the past slowly beginning to change as I spend more time on board. Life on a ship some three hundred years ago is not as glamorous as portrayed by Hollywood. In actual fact, life on board, especially for the common seaman, is not comfortable at all.

Most of their daily lives were confined to the front section of the ship which is narrow and cramp. These sailors even have to seek verbal permission from the officers if they want venture to other parts of the ship. There are no toilets and the men have to squat on a wooden plank with an oval shaped section cut out. I can just imagine them hanging on for dear life in this precarious position during rough seas!

The stairs leading the lower level of the ship is narrow and steep. I have to use the knotted rope to steady myself. The height from floor to ceiling is only four feet and I have to practically waddle like a duck to move from the front to the back of the ship. Now I understand why the person I met leaving the ship earlier was complaining of a stiff neck!

The dining area is next to the cook's fire hearth which was considered state-of-the-art back in 1768. A sailor can ask permission to use the fire if he caught himself a fish or perhaps a juicy rat! The Scottish cook, John Thompson, had lost one hand but still managed to cook for the 94 people on board. At night, the dishes are cleared and hammocks are strung over the dinner tables for the sailors while the higher ranking officers slept in cots.

Conditions gradually improve as I move towards the stern. The senior officers and gentlemen either shared or had their own cabins. Finally I reach the 'great cabin' where Lieutenant Cook spends most of his time going over the navigational charts and discussing the daily activities with his officers and scientists.

Cook's cabin is huge, occupying nearly all of the back section of the lower deck. I spend more time here partly because I can finally stand upright again and also because there is so much to see. The spread out maps, boxes of freshly gathered plant and flower specimens together with a well stocked book cabinet indicate a busy Lieutenant Cook during his voyage to discover Australasia.

Finally, after more than an hour below deck, I gratefully climb up the stairs to return to the open deck. I am sure the original crew of the HMB Endeavour would have felt the same each time they emerge from the tiny hatch. Like me, their spirits must have surely been lifted at the sight of the clear blue sky and feeling the gentle caress of the cool sea breeze against their weather beaten faces.  

Leaving HMB Endeavour I move on to modern vessels like battleships and submarines before returning to view the extensive indoor exhibits. Nevertheless, it is the visit onboard HMB Endeavour that firmly remains the highlight of my visit.

For more information contact the Australian National Maritime Museum, 2 Murray Street, Darling Harbour, Sydney New South Wales 2000, Australia. Tel: +61 2 9298 3777 Email: info@anmm.gov.au Website: www.anmm.gov.au

OPEN HOURS
Every Day 9:30 am - 5:00 pm
Extended to 6:00 pm in January
Last boarding time for submarine and tall ships: 4.10pm
Closed Christmas Day 25 December.

TICKET INFORMATION
Open daily from 9:30am with last boarding at 4:10pm (extended to 5:10pm during summer).
It is highly recommended that you purchase a Big Ticket.
Also, remember to go online and check out the 'Plan Your Visit' page which has everything you need to know about making a memorable trip to the museum.

VISITING TIPS
Children must always be accompanied by an adult and for safety reasons, kids have to be at least 90cm in height to board all vessels.
Be prepared to get physical. HMB Endeavour involves climbing, crouching and navigating confined spaces.
Visitors are recommended to wear flat shoes.

NOTE: The last three images feature my published work in the New Straits Times Thursday 28 July 2016 in the JOM! Life & Times section