A find in a quaint antique shop in the Blue Mountains in Australia gives Alan Teh Leam Seng the opportunity to relive Singapore’s past
“ALL of you have the entire afternoon to shop and explore. Just remember to be back before 5pm,” the guide announces after our hearty lunch. Most of my friends are already excitedly discussing their shopping plans. But me? I have my own agenda. When the bus to Wentworth Falls passed through Katoomba Street in the Blue Mountains, Australia, just the day before, I had caught sight of some antique shops. And today seems the perfect opportunity to see whether anything interesting can be unearthed.
My first stop is Peachtree Antiques. The colourful rocking horse by the entrance catches my eye the moment I enter. Not every family could afford such a magnificent toy in the past. It must have belonged to someone born with a silver spoon in his mouth. The horse must have been a treasured possession to be in such a perfect condition. A look at the price tag, however, is enough to send me scurrying to the other parts of the shop. Alas, nothing else catches my fancy.
Judging by its size, Macarthurs Arcade just across the road seems a better bet. Glass display cases line the sides all the way from the entrance to the distant rear exit. A collection of old picture postcards by the counter draws me like a magnet. Secretly, I’m hoping to find something from Malaya but after half an hour of frantic flipping, all there is are Australian-themed cards.
“Looking for something in particular?” the lady at the counter asks as I return the entire stack back into its worn out cardboard box.
I turn, my eyes lighting up in excitement, and I ask: “Do you have any old photographs or postcards from Malaysia and Singapore?” Through experience, I always mention both countries at the same time as most shops tend to stock Malaysian and Singaporean materials together. Perhaps this is due to their long intertwined history.
The lady pauses for a while before suggesting that I check further down the aisle. “If not, then you can always check the basement. There are lots of books down there. Hopefully you’ll find something,” she says, with a kindly smile, while pointing to a blue sign hanging from the ceiling that reads: ‘SECOND HAND BOOKS’.
My next hour or so in the shop is spent looking at the countless wares in the display cases. I like the shiny solid silver cutlery and tea sets best. Those from the Victorian and Edwardian era are definitely my favourites. Again, the price tags on these exquisite pieces are beyond my budget. There’s no way I’d be able to afford a small set even if I were to starve for an entire month!
IN SEARCH OF THAT ELUSIVE FIND
The lower floor is covered with row upon row of dark brown bookcases filled to the brim with book. Overwhelmed, I wonder just where to start. Looking around, I spy a lady sitting at a very large desk nearby, so immersed in her work that she hasn’t even registered my presence.
“Excuse me, where’s the section for Malaysia and Singapore?” I ask, bundling both countries together again.
She promptly points me to a section clearly marked SOUTHEAST ASIA. This didn’t look promising. Obviously there are not many books from each individual country and thus they’re all categorised under a common region.
Most of the reading materials comprise modern travel-related books which have probably been discarded by their original owners after returning from their trips abroad. I scan each shelf thoroughly, not wanting to miss anything. Then, suddenly, my gaze rests on a surprise find.
The book that I’ve been searching for quite some time is right in front of my eyes! There it was: Raffles: The Story of Singapore.
My hands tremble as I hold the book in my hands and flip through the pages carefully to check the condition. Returning to the lady at the counter, I can’t wipe the grin off my face. I ask for a discount and get a princely A$10 (RM34) taken off the price tag. My search is over and I can finally go back.
Finding the book here in the Blue Mountains couldn’t have come at a better time. I’m due to transit in Singapore for eight hours for another assignment before returning home. I’m sure I can find some time after work to explore the city using the book as my guide. It’ll be fun to compare the drastic changes to the landscape since Singapore was founded by Stamford Raffles back in 1819.
In just 373 pages, the author, Raymond Flower, has been able to weave a spellbinding tale that keeps me glued to the book all the way until I land at Changi Airport. The book is filled with valuable images from old Singapore, transporting me to a long-forgotten era, starting with the time when Singapore was known as Temasek and an ancient Malay kingdom existed atop Fort Canning Hill, or Bukit Larangan as it was known then.
EXPLORING THE LION CITY
There are too many places in the book for me to finish checking out in the few hours I have to spare on my transit so I decide on Raffles Hotel for the simple reason that it’s featured on the book cover.
The hotel, established by the Sarkies Brothers in 1887, was enlarged from a single structure into a grand “modern” hotel some 10 years later. At that time, powered ceiling fans and electric lights were considered state-of-the-art features. Over the years a veranda, ballroom, restaurant and billiards room were added to cater to the never-ending demands of the growing colonial society.
Back in the early days, dining out was one of the most important social events among the small group of European residents. Quite often, the men would be formally dressed in their white waistcoats and trousers with heavy black coats. In his book, Flower talks about lavish dinners consisting of sweet Bengal mutton, Chinese capons, Kedah fowls, Singgora ducks, Yorkshire hams, Java potatoes and Malay ubis. These were then followed by curry and rice accompanied by sambals, Bombay ducks, salted turtle eggs and omelettes. As if those weren’t enough, desserts included macaroni puddings, cheese, custard and a delightful spread of tropical fruits brought to the table before the men adjourned for their cigars and coffee.
The Singapore River is just a short bus ride from Raffles Hotel’s Beach Road. This vibrant commercial area encompassing Raffles Place and Chinatown has always been the city’s pulse. Today, this place, with its countless towering skyscrapers, is one of the largest financial centres in the world.
THE STATUE
The spot where Raffles’ statue has been erected is said to have been the spot where he landed nearly 200 years ago. I find it quite hard to believe that this modern city had just a hundred attap huts during the time when Raffles first arrived.
Singapore drew people from nearby regions with the promise of free trade and jobs under British protection. Unlike the Dutch trading posts at that time, businesses in Singapore thrived as they were unhampered by taxation and administrative red tape.
The Malays came from mainland Peninsula and Sumatra and stayed around the new Sultan’s palace at Kampong Glam. The enterprising Babas from Malacca and Penang arrived just as the South China immigrant floodgates were opening.
The Indian traders from the subcontinent set up shops and lived around Seranggoon, making it their Little India. Some of the earliest houses in the young settlement were built by Narayana Pillai who arrived with Raffles and became Singapore’s first building contractor.
With little time left on my hands, and feeling overwhelmed by just how much there is to old Singapore that I have yet to discover, I make a promise to myself that my exploration of Singapore past will come. But not today.
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