Lamma Island Heritage

Fisherfolk Heritage

It is a cold moonless night. The two figures huddle close to each other, trying hard to conserve as much warmth as possible. An owl hoots in the distance while the noticeably higher water level in the dark cave herald the approaching tide. The duo are Japanese Imperial Army sentries sent to guard the grottos on Lamma Island. The soldiers know that they are approaching a crucial stage of the war. By the end of the week the speed boats and explosives will arrive and they will be ready to repel any allied battleship that dares to enter Hong Kong waters. But before then, it is their duty to remain vigilant against British spies planning to thwart their mission.

Then a small craft appears just as the tide is hitting it highest. Based on its silhouette, the sentries know that it belongs to their own navy. Bewildered at the unexpected arrival, the guards wait patiently for the courier to wade the remaining shallows. The expression on the visitor's face tells it all. Japan has surrendered! The atomic bombs dropped at Hiroshima and Nagasaki recently had taken such a heavy toll on the nation that there was nothing else to do but to raise the white flag.

Fast forward to present day, the grottoes never got to serve their deadly function and instead have become a popular tourist attraction. These Kamikaze Caves top the list of the must visit places on Lamma Island. The queues can be quite long during weekends when tourists take turn to peer into their depths, each one trying to imagine how life must have been like for the poor guards hiding in those water logged cavities.

 The Lamma Island ferry leaves Central Pier 4 in downtown Hong Kong on a regular basis. The forty minute journey brings visitors to Sok Kwu Wan, the main fishing village on the island. It is advisable to check out the location map at the end of the terminal to get an idea of the attractions in store. It is here that I meet up with fellow first time visitor, Lee Po Ling.

I learn from Po Ling that the island is a popular getaway destination for people from the city. 'The air here is much better and its is very peaceful. Working in city is always hectic. We never have time for anything else apart from work during weekdays. So many people like to come here to escape all that craziness. On top of that, the seafood here is very fresh and cheap,' she tells me while pointing to a row of restaurants nearby.

The thing I like best about the restaurants is the endless glass aquariums housing a wide variety of live sea creatures. These ranges from the tasty giant groupers to tiny molluscs with interesting shell patterns. Diners can select their preference directly from these containers and have them cooked in the kitchen located at the back. By my rough calculations there are at least twenty food outlets here. Each one of them has comfortable dining areas located right next to the sea. This allows their patrons to enjoy unparalleled views of the bay the shares the same name as the village while enjoying their meal.

Walking down the street, I realise that there are several little kiosks selling local delicacies interspersed between the restaurants. I think this as close as I can get to street food on the island. I love street food. To me they represent the authentic local cuisine. Torn between which stall to visit, I decide to make a beeline for the one with the longest queue. This has always been my fail safe way in ferreting out the best in each new place I visit.

It turns out that I am right once again. The deep fried squid balls are delicious! I like the embedded chewy bits best and the mild chili sauce dip is a definite must.

Leaving the food outlets behind, I arrive at a large open square. It is good to be out in the sun again. The only building here is the 150 year old Tin Hau Temple. Locals come here regularly to offer prayers to the deities and seek their divine help to protect their loved ones who make a living at sea.

I meet up with Po Ling once again outside the temple. She asks me what I was planning to do next. I tell her that I plan to visit the Kamikaze Cave before heading back. 'So fast? You must visit the Fisherfolk Village. Join me. I promise it will be fun,' she tells me before walking off in the direction of the World war II site.

Fisherfolk Village is actually a floating fish farm set up to promote the local heritage. Visitors have to take a short boat ride across Sok Kwu Wan Bay to reach it. We are welcomed by Chan Ho Yin who is the chief facilitator here. Right from the beginning, I am curious as to why a young chap like Ho Yin doing in a place like this. Normally people his age would be busy chasing their dreams in the city.

During a lull, I manage to subtly enquire about his age and why he prefers his present job. Judging from the expression on his face, I can clearly see that he gets asked the same questions regularly. 'I am nearly 27 years old. I am very happy here as there is no stress. Furthermore I get to enjoy the sea every day,' he tells Po Ling and me before inviting the entire group to indulge in some funny hookless fishing.

The rules to this unique game are simple. Each participant gets a wooden pole with a fish tied to the end of a stout rope. The key word to remember here is 'tied'. There are no hooks involved. The bait is lowered into a cage full of large voracious circling snappers. Prospective anglers are allowed to bring home any fish free of charge, which is if they can land any at all. Initially, everyone had such great hopes of bringing home dinner. Shouts and screams fill the air as the fish start to bite. Everyone tried to pull in their catch but all our efforts proved futile. In the end, we all had a good laugh. Looking on the bright side, at least the fish were not harmed during that amusing episode.

Ho Yin then leads us to a small hut at the edge of the farm. The walls are adorn with posters and photographs depicting the life of a fisherman in the past. Putting on a serious face, Ho Yin tells us that the fisher folk led challenging lives. Medical services were nearly unheard of due to the distance from the city. As a result, the fisher folk resorted to their own remedies to cure simple ailments. 'Salted plums are either consumed whole or mixed with water and honey. Until today, this concoction is a time tested medicine to treat sore throats and fever,' Ho Yin tells me as he picks up a prepared sample to show the group.

'Other problems faced include the unpredictability of their catch. Sometimes they return home with very little to show while on bountiful days the entire boat can be filled to the brim with fish. As a result, most people on the island resort to salting their catch with the intention to prolong their shelf life,' Ho Yin confides as he starts to tell us about the finer points of preparing salted fish.

It seems at all types of fish can be salted but some taste better than the others after the process. On Lamma Island, the most common fish used are the Snapper Kob and Chinese Herring. The former is favoured by those who have just started eating salted fish because it is relatively cheap and has a very light fishy smell. This makes it more palatable for first timers. On the other hand, connoisseurs prefer the Chinese Herring which emits a stronger aroma and flavour.

On in the last ferry back, I thank Po Ling for suggesting the Fisherfolk Village. Looks my initial intention to see the caves has resulted in a memorable experience and a new local friend in Hong Kong.