Hunter Valley Australia - Olives galore (New Straits Times 2 July 2015)

This is my Adina Olive and Vineyard story published in today's New Straits Times (Life and Times section)


Olives of Distinction


Hunter Valley does not only produce great wines. The olives from this region, which is slightly more than 150km from the capital of New South Wales, are equally as famous and mouth watering. This is among the many new things I learnt during my recent trip to Sydney.

Adina Vineyard is one of the oldest vineyards in the area that has been planting and producing olives commercially since the early 1900s. So imagine my enthusiasm right from the moment I alight from the car to ask to see the olive groves. Sadly I am disappointed. Adina Vineyard owner, Peter O'Meara tells me that early winter is not the best time to see olives on the trees. As a consolation however, I still get a tour around the processing area and learn about how these little oval shaped fruits are processed.

Peter bought this 132 acre estate in 2003. So far, he has invested about A$8 million to upgrade the production lines and existing management offices. All the 80 olive producing companies in Hunter Valley traditionally harvest their olives in early autumn, between the months of March to May. However, many have migrated to planting newer olive varieties which are able to mature faster and produce a higher yield. Adina Vineyard, on the other hand, has remained true to just planting the traditional favourites like the Manzinillo, Kalamata and Leccino varieties.

I learn from Peter that even though the traditional varieties need more space and time to mature but the oil produced from them is of a far more superior quality. Among the three main types planted here, most common olive variety is the Manzinillo. Originating from Spain, the Manzinillo is highly prized by growers because it is considered to be the best candidate for both table fruit as well as for its high quality oil. 'We value quality above all else here in Adina Vineyard. Everything else is secondary,' adds Peter.

It is common knowledge that the fresh olive fruit is very bitter and is not edible in that form. The raw olive is a far cry from the delicious salty ones that are sold at retail outlet counters. The process begins when the freshly harvested fruits are washed thoroughly. All unwanted foreign matter such as leaves and twigs are removed. Then the fruits are inspected for imperfections like bruises and holes caused by insects. After that they are graded according to size. Naturally the larger ones will fetch a higher price later. Once that is done, the fruits are transferred into large plastic vats containing 10% salt solution. The olives are left to soak in brine for at least several weeks. During this period, the olives start to lose their bitter taste and begin to acquire the salty flavour. The salt solution have to be changed periodically to ensure a consistent concentration throughout the entire treatment.

Adina Vineyard favours this traditional brining technique over the harsher sodium based process. 'Although the benign salt solution technique takes a longer time than the ones using sodium but the end product will be tastier and firmer,' explains Peter. Once the olives have achieved the determined flavour and texture, the containers are drained and the fruits are rinsed in clean water before being preserved in 6% vinegar.

The extra virgin olive oil in Adina Vineyard is produced using the cold press technique. Peter tells me that it is essential that consumers get their products from reliable producers so that they get what they are actually paying for. He explains that in Australia, producers have to fulfill at least four different criteria before they are allowed to affix the Certified Australian Extra Virgin on their labels.

Producers have to ensure that the olive fruits are inspected by hand to make sure that they are free from defects. Then the fruits are placed in a hydraulic press which must extract the oil at temperatures below 30 degrees Celsius. At the same time, the producers are not allowed add any chemicals to enhance the flavour or appearance of the final product. Finally, the extra virgin olive oil must have a fat content that is less than 0.8%.

After learning so much about the olive fruit, I move over to the next building which houses the renowned Emersons Cafe and Restaurant to taste some of their olive inspired creations. I recommend sitting at the verandah as the view there is stunning. There is nothing better than enjoying a delicious meal while being surrounded by acres of established vineyards and olive groves.

I start off with warm baguette with seasoned butter. The combination is completed when dipped in Adina extra virgin olive oil, caramelised balsamic vinegar and house made dukkah. I am used to just enjoying my bread with just olive oil and balsamic vinegar but including the crushed nuts and spice mixture adds an extra dimension to the experience. The appetizer goes very well with Adina Chardonnay 2013.




Then I get to choose between the Labna Tart or Black Angus for my main course. I immediately choose the latter as its is one of my all time favourites. The dish is a feast for the eyes even before I start to taste it. Owner and Head Chef Emerson Rodriguez is indeed a maestro in creating such a masterpiece.  I like the way he uses the half cut onions as a receptacle to fill the reduced braising liquid. To me they have become tiny edible cups. The sirloin is cooked just right at medium rare. It is tender and flavourful. As I enjoy my Adina Sangiovese 2013 with the meal, I look out to the distant bare grape vines and imagine how verdant it will look in six months' time. I am sure the summer time will be a totally different experience altogether.

Opening Hours: Breakfast Saturday and Sunday 8am - 11am Lunch Wednesday - Sunday 11am - 3pm  Dinner Thursday - Sunday 6pm - 10pm

For more information and reservations contact Emersons Cafe and Restaurant, 492 Lovedale Road, Lovedale NSW 2325. Tel: 0249 307 029 or website emersonsrestaurant.com.au