Ah Peng with his wonderful durians
Ah Peng's assistant cleaning the nutmegs before processing
Enjoying Durians, Hotel Style
I enjoy taking late afternoon walks each time I am on vacation for several reasons. Not being a habitual early riser, this later part of the day allows me to catch up on my much needed exercise while at the same time I get to enjoy the beautiful surroundings - well manicured lawns, colourful flowers and also meeting the occasional nectar sipping butterfly.
However, my recent trip to Penang had an unusual twist to my usual afternoon sojourn. I come across a group of loud, chattering ladies who happen to walk past me and I can unmistakably hear them mentioning red prawns, melons and even a king whose name I did not really catch. "Perhaps they are on their way to an afternoon tea," I thought to myself, shrugging off the notion that the meal combination did seem a wee bit awkward.
I continue on my walk but just a few minutes later, I catch a whiff of something very familiar - durians! I just cannot believe my nose. The King of Fruits at a renowned resort at Batu Ferringi? Impossible! It is only when the aroma become significantly stronger that I am convinced that The King of the Fruits must surely be lurking some where nearby. The only probable explanation I have is perhaps an over zealous hotel guest, unable to resist his or her craving, is having a feast somewhere in the garden. As far as I am concerned, this popular fruit is still strictly out of bounds in all hotels as some locals and most Caucasians find this aromatic fruit revolting. I guess, one man's meat is another man's poison.
My little "sniffing" expedition soon brings me to a secluded spot in between Golden Sands Resort and Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa. I see a large wooden shack shaded by a row of mango trees. Looking closer, I spot the same group of ladies and several others feasting on, what I can now confirm, durians! Judging from the mountain of durian skins next to their picnic tables, it is evident that they are having a really good time. The rotating ceiling fans and wash sink complete the set up.
I walk up to one of the hotel staff and strike up a conversation. I learn that the fruit is sourced from Balik Pulau, the rural heartland of the island where the best of the best Penang durians are produced annually. This "eat-all-you-can" session is part of the Durian Package which will last until 30 November 2013. This promotion includes a stay in Superior Hillview, Deluxe Seafacing or Executive Seaview rooms, daily buffet breakfast for two at Garden Cafe, one complimentary three course set lunch for two at Sigi's Bar and Grill and one complimentary durian session for two on the second day of the stay (3pm-5pm).
By this time I am joined by Director of Communications, Suleiman Tunku Abdul Rahman who tells me that this promotion is the brainchild of Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa's General Manager, Elanie Yue who wants to give guests an opportunity to enjoy the highest quality Penang durians without having to go through the trouble of going from stall to stall to find the best.
Dato Jimmy Choo enjoying the exquisite aroma of local Penang durians
Celebrity chef Datuk Redzuawan Ismail, popularly known as Chef Wan, recently launched this novel idea of a durian shack located within the premises of two sister properties, Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa and Golden Sands Resort, believed to be a first for resorts in Penang. Chef Wan was so pleased with this new idea of promoting durians to tourists that he encourages the incorporation of the fruit into hotel menus such as offering durian ice cream, pancakes and cakes as he says that the fruit is versatile and full of natural goodness.
I take some time to browse through the rows of display shelves where each different variety available for the day is carefully labeled - Red Prawn, melon shaped Hor Lor, Kung Poh, D2, D24, Ang Bak and Musang King. Now everything seems to fall into place. The ladies who walked past me earlier were taking about their durian feast. No wonder they were in such a hurry.
David and his wife from Hong Kong enjoying durians
I also meet up with David Wong and his wife from Hong Kong. The couple tells me that a single durian costs HK$200 (about RM80) and they are very fortunate to have the chance to sample so many wonderful durians at the shack. David tells me that Hong Kongers usually prefer sweet durians and his top picks are the Xiao Hong (Little Red One) and D24 varieties. The duo are so pleased with the fruits that they promise to return to the shack again the next day.
Suleiman also tells me that both Shangri-La resorts in Penang are working together with tour operators to promote this unique Durian Package to foreign and domestic tourists who visit the Pearl of the Orient during this annual fruit season. Sensing my interest, Suleiman offers to take me to Balik Pulau to see for myself how these renowned fruits are produced. I immediately take him up on his offer and promised to be at the lobby in half an hour.
The journey to the orchard takes less than half an hour and there, I meet up with the owner, Teo Wan Peng. While walking among trees, Peng advises me to be constantly vigilant. "Dive for cover if you hear any cracking sound above you as a ripe durian may be falling," he cautions. I look at him in horror but his just smiles and tells me not to worry as durians only fall early in the morning before 5 am when the sudden drop in temperature causes the ripe ones to dislodge themselves from the branches. It is very rare for a fruit to drop in the afternoon. Phew! What a relief!
Fresh nutmegs anyone?
I am completely surrounded by rows upon rows of trees heavily laden with fruit. I notice several trees with strings tied to each individual fruit. Peng tells me that farmers spend additional funds for contract workers to climb up the trees to manually tie each fruit to prevent them from dropping to the ground when they ripen. This labour intensive practice prevents damage to the prized fruits and increases their value. I also learn from Peng that fruits harvested this way usually taste sweet. Durians only acquire their bitter flavour when they fall and hit the ground. The impact causes a chemical reaction which makes the flesh slightly bitter, a major component of the complex structure much prized by durian connoisseurs.
Balik Pulau Town Center - Jubilee Fountain
There are more than 300 durian trees in Peng's 11 acre Red Farm Orchard which is also houese fish ponds, mangosteen, passion fruit, pineapple, rambutan, jackfruit, and nutmeg plants. The orchard, located at the 18th Mile Balik Pulau Road, sits largely on a hill slope and visitors to tread gingerly through steep terrain. The surroundings has a peaceful ambience and the sound of running water from a brook nearby make this a nice place to visit even if it is not the durian season.
Later, over a sampling of several durian varieties, Peng tells me that not all trees produce fruits of the same quality. I learn that mature trees, 30 years or older, tend to produce higher quality fruit with stronger aroma and better flavour, with thicker, creamier flesh compared to similar variety fruit from younger trees.
Peng skillfully opens each fruit with his short, sturdy knife and announces the variety we are about to sample. All in all, we tried about five different types of durians - each with its own distinct flavour which ranges from sweet to bittersweet. The best part is licking the thick, sticky yellow flesh from my fingers!
The oblong shaped Hor Loh (Winter Melon) is very sweet in taste and creamy in texture. This is in contrast with the Ang Heh (Red Prawn). This popular variety has an aromatic, orange-red hue while its flesh has a firm texture and bittersweet taste. This is my first time tasting the renowned Musang King and its taste and aroma does indeed befit the mountain of praises I have heard before. Its light yellow flesh has a bittersweet taste and it is very creamy in texture.
Chef Wan with Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa and Golden Sands Resort General Managers
Those who have yet to taste Penang durians can make a note in their calendar that this year's durian season is expected to peak in August and orchard owners already have a long list of die hard customers, each impatiently waiting for their turn to sample the best of Penang durians. So, plan that trip to Penang and savour the King of Fruits where it is at its best!
For reservations and information on the Durian Package, please call the Customer Sales Department at (60 4) 888 8888 or e-mail reservations.gsh@shangri-la.com or reservations.RSR@shangri-la.com
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