Langgar Kedah - Malaysia's Small and Forgotten Towns Part 1

Heading for Langgar

I belong to what many consider as the old school of thought. In today's smart gadget dominated world, I belong to the ever shrinking group who still use fountain pens daily. My kind is getting fewer by the day for three reasons. One, antique writing instruments especially my favourite Parker pens are very expensive and difficult to come by. Two, the ink, although still available, has increased in price astronomically. Three, the pen occasionally leaks leading to many a ruined shirt. I think the third reason is the one that is most discouraging for new users. As for the vast majority, ball point pens are definitely cheaper and more convenient.

During a recent trip up north to hunt of antiques in Kedah, I happen to pass by Pekan Langgar. The two rows of old shop houses flanking both sides for the road catch my attention. I like pre war buildings. They are so beautiful to look at. Their architecture and functionality put modern homes to shame. With my attention now fully diverted from my initial plan, I decide to make a quick stop over. I tell myself, 'Just fifteen minutes and then I will be on my way'.

It is interesting to note that almost half of the shops here sell daily provisions. The vast accumulation of promotional stickers, some for brands that no longer exist, on the display cabinets tell me that these shops must have been in business for a very long time. That is a good sign. Perhaps I can find what antique collectors refer to as new old stock or simply NOS. Small town shops are a favourite hunting ground for these items.

I take a closer look at the things on display, hoping to find a diamond in the rough. Unfortunately, most of the items are modern stuff. Then, just as I am about to give up hope. I see a small but familiar box at the far end of a large display cabinet. Undoubtedly, it is a bottle of Super Quink! The ink made especially for Parker fountain pens!

I ask for the box and I get an even better surprise when inspecting the slightly faded blue packaging closely. The price tag reads RM4.50! I just cannot believe my eyes! It was only last month that I had purchased one at a leading hypermarket in Kuala Lumpur for almost twenty five ringgit. There are several older faded price tags below the existing one. It amuses me to think that the initial price may even be cheaper!

I turn to the proprietor and decide to push my luck further by asking her for a discount. Imagine my delight when she decides to shave off a princely sum of one whole ringgit!  The final sale is just RM3.50! While returning me my change, the lady gives me a puzzled look and asks what my purchase is used for. Obviously, the ink must have been in the shop even before she started working there!

Pekan Langgar is located some 8km from Alor Setar. Until recently, this one street town used to be very busy. About two years ago, a newly built trunk road started to divert a vast majority of traffic away. A furniture shop owner tells me that in the past it was very difficult to cross the road. Then, he draws a stark comparison by saying 'Today, you can stand in the middle of the road at noon and not get hit by a vehicle.'

Unlike most towns surrounding Alor Setar, locals refer to the town of Langgar as Pekan Langgar and not just the word Langgar. There are two reasons to this unusual anomaly.

No one in their right mind will say 'Saya hendak pergi Langgar'. Direct translation of this sentence would suggest that the unfortunate person is heading for an accident or collision. Next, the same phrase will cause confusion as the word 'Langgar' can mean either the town or Jalan Langgar, the longest thoroughfare leading all the way to Alor Setar, spanning just under 10km.

The people here are very friendly. Sensing my deep interest for all things old, they even invite me 'beyond-the-wall'. This is the term used for the rear section of the shop house which serves as the living area for the owner and his family. I gawk at the majestic staircases, stunning family portraits and intricately carved furniture. I also notice that nearly every shop still has a safe tucked in an obscure corner. These must have been very useful in the past when banks were not as easily accessible as today.

During my conversations with the people in Pekan Langgar, the nearby Kedah Royal Mausoleum is mentioned quite frequently. Quite a few suggest that I make it a point to visit the place also known as Makam DiRaja Kedah before I leave.

The Royal Mausoleum is a a quick two minute drive away from town. It is accessible via a small side road which runs parallel to Sungai Langgar. In the past when the main trunk road from Alor Setar was not yet built, the funeral procession would travel along the river in the form of a long train of richly decorated boats. Villagers would line the river banks to witness the historic but sad occasion.

I park my car in the visitors' carpark and walk towards the river. Standing by the river bank, with the wind rustling the willow leaves above me, I begin to imagine the sombre mood as the dead sultan is slowly taken to his final resting place. The entire place must have been teeming with members of the royal family, important dignitaries, community leaders and also the rakyat, each one patiently waiting their turn to bid their final farewell to their beloved sultan.

Visitors are allowed to enter the public section of the Royal Mausoleum. However, those planning to visit the restricted area housing the royal graves have to obtain prior permission from the state government.

I would suggest visiting this place either in the early morning or late evening as it will be cooler. There are lots of shady trees. The spacious wakaf near the entrance is a good place for those who want to take a breather.

The Kedah Royal Mausoleum is said to have been built during the reign of Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah who ascended the Kedah throne in 1778. He made the decision to build this permanent mausoleum for himself and his royal descendants during his 19 year rule.

A total of eight sultans have been laid here to rest. The most recent being Sultan Badlishah who passed away in 1958. The Royal Mausoleum is also houses the graves of four sultanahs and other members of the royal family.

The graves of Kedah prince and our Father of Independence, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj together with his mother, Paduka Seri Manjalara, are also here.

A stone's throw away from the Kedah Royal Mausoleum is an old surau which is made entirely of wood. I decide to leave my car in the mausoleum parking lot and walk the short distance.  

The exterior of the surau is covered with intricately carved wooden panels, many with unique floral motifs. I also noticed that some panels are carved with both Jawi as well as Arabic words, presumably containing verses from the Holy Quran.

It is already noon by the time I drive back towards the main road. Feeling a bit hungry, I remember seeing a nasi kandar shop on my way in earlier. I retrace my tracks and manage to find the shop easily. This time I see a long snaking line of hungry customers. This is always a good sign. The food here must be good.

A large part of the small parking lot in front of the shop are occupied by motorcycles. So, like other motorists, I have no alternative but to find a safe spot to park by the side of the road. I guess when in Pekan Langgar, I have to do as the local people do.

Despite the long line of customers, service is surprisingly fast and soon I find myself at the top of the line. The sea of stainless steel containers full of delicious food can be quite overwhelming especially when it is my first time. Just to play safe, I ask for a sampling of the popular dishes. I tell myself that I can always try the others when I visit Pekan Langgar next time.

My plate of yellow rice, ayam masak merah, daging kurma and acar comes up to less than five ringgit. My air sirap merah is only 60 sen. Things are indeed cheap and very tasty in small towns! I must start planning my second trip here soon!

While paying for my meal, I strike up a conversation with the cashier who tells me of another place that I should not miss. I tell her that I had initially allocated myself only 15 minutes for a quick look around and, looking at my watch, I have taken more than an hour already.

Finally her persistence prevailed and I find myself driving towards Makam Kampung Tanjung Inggeris. I drive back to Pekan Langgar and make a right turn into a narrow side road at the end of the first row of pre war shop houses. The road is only slightly wider than my car. Fortunately, the only vehicles I meet along the way are motorcycles. The law here must be very lenient as most of the motorcyclists do not wear helmets.

There are no road signs leading to the cemetery. My GPS unit is not helpful this time. So, I have no choice but to use the low tech but effective time tested method of stopping to ask for directions from the local residents.

Tanjung Inggeris used to be the penultimate landing point for large ships sailing into the interior of northern Kedah. After this point, the river becomes too shallow and narrow for large vessels. It got its unique name with a foreign flavour when it became a harbour for the British.

There are many ancient tomb stones in the Tanjung Inggeris cemetery. The older ones are easily recognizable as they have designs resembling those from Acheh Indonesia. Among these is the the resting place of Syaikh Abdul Qadir Ibni Husein Shah Alirah who, according to the inscription at the grave site, died on 25 January 904. He is said to be the first to spread Islam to the region. This fact, if proven true, will be substantial as it will prove that Kedah embraced Islam much earlier than even Malacca!

Syaikh Abdul Qadir is believed to be from Iran. The local oral history passed down for generations claim that the word Langgar in ancient Iranian language means school or a place to acquire religious knowledge.

Again, looking at my watch, I realize that the initial fifteen minutes has stretched to a very interesting two and a half hours. My plans for Pokok Sena will have to wait for another day.