Southern Ridges - Walking Singapore from Harbour Front to Labrador Park

This is my story that appeared in today's New Straits Times (25 June 2015) - Life and Times (Travel Times) section

Back to Nature

I have heard more often than once about my friends referring to Singapore as a concrete jungle where shopping is the favourite national past time. Even my relatives never fail to mention Orchard Road each time they come back from visiting our neighbour down south. As usual, their one and only topic seems to be centred around how cheap things are in Singapore despite the strong dollar and the numerous bargains they successfully acquired at places along that famous tourist belt. The way they rattle off names like Takashimaya, Ngee Ann City, Centrepoint and Tangs gives me the impression that they know these places better than the shopping malls back here in Kuala Lumpur.

So, during my recent trip to the Lion City, I decide to do something different. I want to dispel the myth that Singapore is all about just shopping. I want to avoid Orchard Road and all the malls within its vicinity.

 A quick visit to the Singapore Visitor Centre in Chinatown gives me the opportunity to compare my alternatives. There are food trails, museums and even a tour to places that have connections to all things supernatural. Finally I decide on something that takes me away from the city. For once I want to be away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

The next morning sees me getting up at the crack of dawn. Thankful for the hotel's dependable morning call service I manage to eke out a few precious minutes to grab a quick breakfast before hailing a taxi to Marang Road. The ride from Bras Basah Road takes less than fifteen minutes in the light early morning traffic. The cab driver lets me alight in front of the Harbour Front MRT station and helpfully points me to the right direction.

The first few rays of the sun are just beginning to make their grand appearance over the horizon as I stand by the Marang Road sign to survey the trail ahead.  Undeterred by the slight drizzle and a few dark clouds directly above, I begin the first step towards my 10km Southern Ridges adventure.

It is a tough uphill climb right from the start. The concrete steps lead me along a winding path. At times I have to hold on to the railings as the wet surface tends to be slightly slippery. Once in a while I stop to catch my breath. One thing I learn is that walking uphill is many, many times tougher than walking on a flat surface. It is no easy task going against gravity.

I like the way the path is built around the large trees. This is an indication that the planners have respect for Mother Nature and have taken great pains to ensure minimal impact on the surroundings during the construction stage. During my frequent breathers I manage to take the opportunity to admire the greenery around me. I am sure the tall trees with their huge protruding buttress roots must be at least half a century old. Chances are that some of these could have germinated the very same year Singapore achieved her independence exactly 50 years ago!

I finally reach the summit of Mount Faber after 30 long minutes. I walk to the edge of the cable car station to admire the view from my vantage point. By this time the drizzle had dissipated and the dark clouds vanished, literally into thin air. I spend a few minutes watching the cable cars slowly moving towards Sentosa Island while at the same time quenching my thirst. The contents of a 500 ml bottle quickly disappears down my throat and I am glad I brought an additional two more to last me throughout the entire walk.

There are ample signages along the way and never once did I feel like I was losing my sense of direction. Furthermore, I am not alone. This place seems to be very popular. Most of the people I meet are joggers out for their morning exercise. Apart from meeting those of my own kind, I also see lots of monkeys, squirrels and birds moving amongst the trees above. At the places where there are lesser human traffic, I am serenaded by a chorus of cicadas.

My walk now is much easier on flat ground. In just a few minutes later I arrive at the Henderson Waves. This is the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore, connecting Mount Faber Park to Telok Blangah Hill Park. This is a good place to rest as there are lots of seats available. The eye catching wave-like structures provide ample shade from the sun. The thing that strikes me the most is the excellent maintenance. Looking around, I can pick out a few pieces of wood that have just been replaced judging from their difference in colour tone. Despite being nearly seven years old, the Henderson Waves still look very new and clean.

The path I tread on changes from wood to metal as I reach the next stage of my walk. The Hilltop Walk and Forest Walk consists of a series of interconnecting metal bridges which allow me to see the trees the way I have never done before. Usually I am at ground level looking up but now I get to appreciate the canopy up close and personal. I feel like a giant each time I stop to survey the landscape below. The metal structures are very sturdy and there are staircases located at various strategic locations just in case visitors need to get down quickly.

At one stage I was walking so quietly that I managed to startle a squirrel enjoying a fruit. It had its back facing me and only realised my presence when I was less then two feet away. It must have got a shock of its life to see me so close. The poor fellow just let go of its breakfast and disappeared into the thick foliage in a flash. I guess it did not expect to meet any humans at such a height.

The metal path finally leads me to another architecturally inspiring bridge which spans the arterial Alexandra Road below. The Alexandra Arch features a curved deck and tilted arch which reminds me of an opened leaf. Just like the Handerson Waves, this structure is also lit by colour changing LED lamps from 7 pm to 7 am. I must try to make another trip here to see this place bathed in various colours at night.

A short distance away I find myself in a garden full of flowers. There are so many blooms to admire but I like the ornamental dwaft banana plant best for its inverted pink flower. This is very unlike the ones that I usually find back home where the flowers point downwards. I am glad there are lots of tall trees lining the path connecting the HortPark and Canopy Walk. This provides me with lots of much appreciated shade as the sun is now quite high up in the sky and the mercury is rising fast.

My four hour long walk ends at the World War II memorial at Bukit Chandu. I gladly pay the $2 entrance fee to seek refuge in its air conditioned interior. I let my leg muscles a brief respite as I sit down to enjoy a short feature film telling of how a small but gallant group of Malay Regiment soldiers led by Lietenant Adnan Saidi managed to thwart the Japanese Imperial Army attack for two entire days. Sadly all but one of these brave men was captured and put to the sword by the vengeful Japanese.

The Southern Ridges connect Mount Faber Park, Telok Blangah Hill Park, HortPark, Kent Ridge Park and Labrador Nature Reserve. There is so much to see here but the time taken can vary from 4 to 6 hours depending on the walking speed. Remember to bring along comfortable walking shoes and lots of drinking water. Those who cannot spare the amount of time or walk the entire length can opt to explore each section in stages.

For more information contact the Singapore Tourism Board at Tourism Court, 1 Orchard S?pring Lane, Singapore 247729. Tel: +65 6736 6622 Fax: +65 6736 9423 Website: www.stb.gov.sg